Brazen Plaid Butterfly
Conception
The plaid denim dress was commissioned and designed for my sister. The core requirements were focused on structure and ease. She often struggled to find clothes that fit her personal bust-band difference. The contoured bodice was shaped using carefully placed seams, while the angled plaid enhances movement and in a contrasting direction. The client requested a versatile neckline, blending both boat and scoop styles for casual wear. To prioritize accessibility, an exposed front zipper was incorporated, allowing for effortless on-and-off wear. An O-ring corset adorns the back of this dress to provide the option of adjustable sizing. Not only does this adjust to any changes in body weight, but it also adds a new design element to the dresses structure.
Execution
The construction process itself was complicated. Because the fabric had extra stretch in the crossgrain, aligning the plaid lines on the zipper was difficult to accomplish without bubbling. In the end I was able to finish all my seams without bubbling, and perfected a comfortable fit for my sister. She said the bust-band measurement fit like a glove. In the patterning process, something my sister and I talked about was finding a length that looked proportionate. The final hem length ended up being a little too short for the models casual wearing preference. If I were to attempt this again, I would extent the curve of the back bodice skirt pattern for a fuller coverage. I would also add a dart parallel to the center back bodice to allow me to sew the D-ring corset detailing into a seam rather than a patch on the surface of the bodice.
Plaid Denim Culottes
Alternative Sizing
Our bodies are in a constant state of flux, always changing. If we are always changing, why shouldn’t our clothes be able to as well? The waistband theory can be applied in a variety of different ways; however, its original variation lives outside of the garment, secured across the waist and hips. A small strap of fabric is threaded through strap holsters located at the waist and hips for specific sizing modes. While secured across these areas, the fabric cinches up to 2 inches on either side of the waist and hips to create the desired fit. When tightened, the fabric compresses underneath the threaded strap of fabric, creating a gathering effect. In addition to creating a unique way to resize garments, it can also create new design elements like drape and silhouette. For example, a bucket can be placed vertically to lift fabric, creating a convertible drape effect or addressing utilitarian needs.
Denim Execution
The plaid denim culottes are designed first and foremost to adapt to user comfort. The fly is covered by a patch that resembles the shape of a shield. The fly closure is inspired by the traditional German lederhosen. 4 bucks are strategically placed to pull straps around the hips and waist to adjust the fit. As our bodies change through out the days, weeks, and months, it’s important to have clothes that can be adjusted to continue to fit properly. Beginning at the top of the inseam, plaid panels are attached and mirrored across the seam to create an elongating direction and illusion of greater movement. This garment was upcycled out of second-hand cotton burgundy denim, and a cotton-elastane blend plaid denim gifted to me from Fidelity Denim.
Plaid Denim Square Skirt
Adaptive Sizing
Similar to the Plaid Denim Culottes, the Square Skirt adopts the waistband theory into its core construction. This variation lives inside the channel of a waistband, creating a comfortable fit for 10 different sizes. Inside the waistband, a small strap of fabric is threaded through the channel. On the outside of the waistband, a buttonhole is sewn for the internally threaded strap to release and cinch using a mounted buckle. When tightened, the fabric compresses around the threaded strap of fabric, allowing for a controlled spectrum of sizes.
Fabrication
The Plaid Denim Square Skirt is designed with the intention of user accessibility. One size does not fit all, but with the right approach to sizing, one garment may fit all. The square skirt was cut from a large square to reduce fabric waste and allow for a comfortable fit, no matter what size waist or hips. This garment was upcycled out of secondhand cotton burgundy denim and a cotton-elastane blend plaid denim gifted to me from Fidelity Denim.
